ALFIO GHEZZI AT CASA LERARIO
Alfio Ghezzi, chef of the Senso restaurant in Rovereto, was the third guest of the new cycle of four signature lunches by Casa Lerario, Sannita farmhouse accustomed to initiatives with excellent chefs (ne parliamo which).
The Trentino chef, student of Gualtiero Marchesi with great familiarity with the Michelin guide (già 2 stars for Locanda Margon and currently 1 star as Senso executive), he brought his mountain cuisine to the Sannio area of Benevento for a day, characterized by the extensive use of vegetal flavours.
In his foray into Campania Alfio Ghezzi was joined in the kitchen by the Irpinian Mirko Balzano (ne parliamo which), che 11 years ago he had been one of his interns in Trento (and who always remembered this experience fondly, in particular for the calm atmosphere that could be felt in the kitchens, very far from many work environments “toxic” which unfortunately we hear about).
Ghezzi's dishes, like all those in this series of meetings at Casa Lerario, they were accompanied by the company's wines Cantine I Favati of Cesinali (Avellino).
There are many vegetable interpretations in the menu proposed by Alfio Ghezzi to the guests of the farmhouse; del resto, the slogan of the Senso restaurant is “Nature as the main ingredient”.
In apertura, Cauliflower: Parmigiano, cocoa and chili pepper. A dish that is more delicious than beautiful, a first clue to the chef's cuisine made of seasonal ingredients and apparently unusual combinations, but very thoughtful, which stimulate the palate in a fascinating way.
In abbinamento, a first fruit from Cantine I Favati: Corridor Brut Rosé, sparkling wine at its first official release.
A seguire, Carrots: Chardonnay, spruce and olive. The dish of the day!
Almost an absolute carrot, with the vegetable used in all its parts (including peel and tuft) and the recovery of even the less beautiful specimens to look at for preparations such as the cream and the accompanying centrifuge. The dried and fried peel reproduces a bark.
A complex dish but in perfect olfactory and gustatory balance, in which all elements harmonize.
The sweetness of the carrot is balanced by the bitterness (represented by the olive tapenade on the leaves), by the freshness and balsamicity brought by both the Chardonnay-based reduction, shallot, bay leaves and milk cream, than from the spruce essential oil in the carrot cream.
In this historic dish by chef Ghezzi, a change was made for the occasion: an infusion of armellina almond in the centrifuged product; a pairing, the one between carrot and almond, well run and always appreciated.
The finely chopped root takes the place of the cereal in Sempa Riso di Rapa: Mortandela from Val di Non, cabbage powder and chamomile.
Mortandela from Val di Non is a typical cured meat from Trentino, made with the noble parts of the pig; it is not stuffed into a casing.
Paired with Rose Season Campania Rosato IGT 2022 I Favati, Pure Aglianico.
Homage to the host territory Suino Nero Casertano: Turnip greens, anchovy and coffee.
Paired with Cretarossa Irpinia Campi Taurasini Doc 2016 I Favati.
Per finire, Miele: Spice biscuit, pollen and buttermilk ice cream, combined with Grappa del Braione Riserva from Fiano I Favati grapes.
An incredible lunch, which conquered everyone, not just vegetarians like me.
A perfect example of how vegetables can be extraordinarily exciting if treated wisely. And chef Ghezzi not only knows how to do it, but he is also attentive to their origin.
A large part of the Senso restaurant's vegetable needs comes from a horticulture project in collaboration with a social cooperative that takes care of children with difficulties; other ingredients are supplied by trusted growers.
The next and last appointment with Casa Lerario's signature lunches will be 24 February with chef Nicola Fossaceca from the Metrò di San Salvo, in the province of Chieti (1 stella Michelin).
We thank the journalist Laura Gambacorta for the kind invitation.
Casa Lerario
Contrada Laura, 6 – Melizzano, Benevento
such. 0824/944018
www.casalerario.it
Cantine I Favati
Donato Square, 41 - Cesinal, Avellino
such. 0825/666898
www.cantineifavati.it
Sense – Mart
Angelo Bettini Course, 43 – Rovereto, Trento
such. 0464/661375
https://alfioghezzi.com/senso-mart-alfio-ghezzi/