HOW IS THE Parmigiano Reggiano: 4 MADONNE CASEIFICIO DELL'EMILIA
It is one of the most popular Italian DOP products and beloved in the world: the Parmigiano Reggiano.
A cheese that has no need of presentation; but we know how and where does?
For all of the dairy world fans a good chance of discovery may be dairies Open, the initiative that allows twice a year to visit for free over 50 Companies adhering to the Parmigiano Reggiano DOP.
The spring edition of this year was held on Saturday 13 is Sunday 14 aprile, so we tasted family we decided to take advantage of it and go away for a day in Emilia Romagna.
A Master Taster Onaf has the duty of continuing education 😉
That Parmigiano Reggiano is a long story, which dates back to the Middle Ages, and precisely to the places where it still produces.
A reclamation area, by the very high humidity, important factor for the success of the product.
Parmigiano Reggiano benefits of Protected Designation of Origin '90s; the specification allows the production in the entire provinces of Modena, Parma and Reggio Emilia, dairies to Mantova that are located on the right bank of the Po and dairies to Bologna located on the left bank of the Rhine River.
Destination of our first approach to the Parmigiano Reggiano is one of the leading dairies in the Modena area: 4 Madonnas Dairy Emilia, agricultural cooperative Lesignana, hamlet of Modena.
The dairy, fondato nel 1967, It named after a votive pillar located not far from his home that depicts the Madonna on all four sides.
It currently has 50 members farms, producing 350 thousand tons of milk corresponding to 65 thousand wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano DOP year (4 thousand of which are produced with organic milk and 400 with Red Cows Milk).
WORKING Parmigiano Reggiano
Our visit began by Production Room, an environment in which they are located 52 internally coated copper calderas, material that allows heat the milk at temperatures not too high and evenly.
Each boiler contains a quantity of milk equal to two forms, that is 1200 l. That production in two forms at a time is one of the peculiarities of Parmigiano Reggiano DOP.
You work 365 giorni all’anno, because the cows are milked every day, and milk can not be stored nor frozen.
The specification requires that the milk has to be used within 16 hours of milking, and that it only worked in the morning to make sure that it remains rich in all its properties, that are going to be transferred in cheese; afternoon boilers are cleaned and dried.
The milk is collected in two separate times of the day, the evening and the morning. What the evening milking is skimmed, what am instead remains full.
Dunque, morning milk from two milkings is mixed and heated to about 33 gradi, which it is the perfect temperature to add the whey (It is obtained by processing the previous day) and calf rennet (enzyme that causes milk coagulation).
With the addition of rennet, the milk thickens going to form the so-called curd.
The curd is broken – with a tool called a spino – into small granules, which will then be baked at approximately 55 gradi (temperature that does not reach the pasteurisation).
Not going to make pasteurization, the organoleptic properties of milk are not affected, but at the same time the processing times are very tight.
Once cooked, the granules appesantiranno and going to fall on the bottom of the caldera.
Having little space (caldera has the shape of inverted bell) the grains cling to each other in a very fast, thus forming a compact mass of about 100 kg which will be manually cut in half with a knife going to create two twin parts of about 50 kg each; After about an hour, It will be wrapped in a linen towel, raised with an automatic lift and transported in Presalatoio 1, where it will start the drying phase.
PRESALATOIO 1
This cheese room is lowered into a white fascera, where it remained for 24 ore.
The forms are turned manually for a total of four times to ensure that both sides are completely flat.
During the first and the second turn of the wet linen cloth is replaced with a dry.
A drive of about 10 kg ago by weight so that the shape drains down excess liquid; this allows the form of dry. The shape when it enters weighs about 50 kg and when it leaves it weighs between 41 e i 42.
The excess liquid is collected in containers; It is said "poor serum", and it is used to rinse the tanks because it can no longer be re-fermented.
At the third turn, the linen cloths leave forms, which they are wrapped in a special fascera marking with dots, containing all identifying information; a narrow time on the form, fascera affects the data and codes on the crust (It is emphasized that the crust is all natural). You are given the month and year of manufacture, the registration number of the dairy (for the 4 Madonna is 1240) and the words Parmigiano Reggiano. Among the symbols imprinted, an oval space, which will remain empty for 12 mesi di stagionatura.
PRESALATOIO 2
After a day spent in Presalatoio 1, the form passes into the room Presalatoio 2, where it is inserted in a steel fascera that confer the typical rounded shape.
Here it will stay around 2 giorni.
SALTING
Dopodiché, the form will pass to the phase of salting, with nothing around. The tubs Salatoio contain a pickle, ie a saturated solution of water and salt to 25%.
The shapes remain immersed for about 20-23 giorni. The salt completely covers the forms, creating a blanket around the shape in such a way that once removed from the brine and commissioning both autonomous warehouse for seasoning without having to be put in the refrigerator.
After twenty days the salt, in addition to having completely enveloped the form, It has penetrated. Inside the tank the shape loses weight (about 8%) is ejected because the internal water.
SEASONED
The last phase is the seasoning, the one that turns the cheese Parmigiano Reggiano.
It is with the seasoning and flavor changes: to the greater penetration of the salt corresponds leakage of moisture, It increases the concentration of the cheese and the flavor becomes stronger.
The minimum maturing period is 12 mesi.
A minimum aging of Parmigiano Reggiano will be slightly sweet, while as the seasoning enhances the taste is more fruity.
The impact not only on flavor seasoning, but also on the consistency, that becomes more brittle.
The dairy stock 4 Madonna has about 33 thousand wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano, that they are turned over and constantly brushed with a particular machine. Each form weighs around 36-37 kg.
CONTROL OF THE CONSORTIUM
after the 12 months of seasoning required by regulations, all forms are subjected to a control by an expert of the Consortium, which consists of a beating with a special hammer. Thanks to his ear, the expert is able to understand if the shape is good or not good.
There are 3 macrocategories inside of which can be inserted in the form as a result of typing by the expert; each form has its destiny.
The first category: if the sound is full and deep, It means that within the form not there are gaps, whereby on the crust can be imprinted with the branding of Parmigiano Reggiano in the Oval appropriate space. Therefore, the shape is suitable for a longer maturation.
Second category: if during the beating the expert feels discontinuous empty (not continuous but present), the shape is watermarked, but also of the grooves they are plotted. In this case it is Parmigiano Reggiano Mezzano, not suitable for long seasoning.
The third category is basically a gap: if there are any defects (You have created internal craters, The exterior color is unconvincing, etc.) the shape is not marked. Fortunately we talk about a tiny percentage.
THE EARTHQUAKE 2012
Nel 2012 There was the earthquake Emilia, unexpected. The facilities were not earthquake-proof. The dairy 4 Madonna has suffered damage 7 million.
The structures are therefore been reconstructed in antisismico way. The shelves of the aging warehouses are bolted to the floor, not stuck to the ceiling and connected with cross-bars which have the function of transmitting the oscillatory movement.
Even all the automated portion of the plant has been inserted after the earthquake, going to facilitate and not to belittle the great craftsmanship.
Una curiosità. The fresh Parmigiano Reggiano before salting is called Tosone.
The paste is semi-hard, It does not have the classic grainy texture; flavored cheese is devoid of flavor, and it takes the name of Tosone because it is "clipped" or dug with a tool similar to a curler to be tasted in small strips.
Parmigiano Reggiano produced in mountain areas can take the words Mountain Product, as is the case for the productions of the establishment of Serramazzoni (in the Modena) del caseificio 4 Madonnas. It has a sweeter taste and a slightly higher cost.
VISITS IN DAIRY
You can make guided tours for a fee at the dairy farm 4 Madonnas every day upon prior reservation at least one week.
The dairy also has a great farm shop where you can buy, in addition to the Parmigiano Reggiano, also many local products. Other outlets are located in Sorbara and Bomporto Solara di Bomporto.
Next round dairies Open is Saturday 5 is Sunday 6 ottobre 2019.
An opportunity that we strongly recommend to all cheese lovers.
4 Madonnas - Dairy Emilia
Road Lesignana, 130 - Lesignana, Modena
such. 059/849468
www.caseificio4madonne.it
Parmigiano Reggiano DOP
www.parmigiano-reggiano.it