THE SECRET OF PULCINELLA IN MONTESARCHIO
Pulcinella's secret it is an expression that indicates something that is actually no longer confidential.
But in the province of Benevento, a Montesarchio, this idiomatism takes on another meaning: is the name of the pizzeria Giuseppe Bove, which in turn hides a secret.
Giuseppe Bove
HISTORY
Casertano of Maddaloni, son of a chef, Giuseppe Bove retraces his father's path, attending the hotel institute in Benevento and gaining work experience in different kitchens, anche stellate.
Nel 2012 opens a restaurant in Santa Maria a Vico (Caserta), but inexperience in the entrepreneurial field pays off, closing after a few months. From this disappointment the first pizzeria Il Segreto di Pulcinella in Montesarchio was born (country of residence of the then girlfriend Antonella, today wife and collaborator), whose name refers to the adventure that ended unhappily and to the sorrow hidden from the eyes of others.
Giuseppe learned the trade of being a pizza chef by himself, studying and experimenting. Research ingredients of ever-increasing quality. Così, over time and with the increase in clientele, the 17 maggio 2023 the new Il Segreto di Pulcinella opens in its current location in Via Napoli, always in Montesarchio.
Giuseppe Bove and his wife Antonella
THE LOCAL
130 posti a sedere, two wood-burning ovens in the open kitchen (plus a third used to dry and regenerate), numerous wine references on display, Il Segreto di Pulcinella has a linear and comfortable style.
The mise en place is simple and refined; the pizza plates bear the restaurant's logo.
Antonella is also among the dining room staff, Joseph's wife.
The pizzeria has a large outdoor car park.
Pulcinella's Secret, room
THE PROPOSAL
On the menu we find fried foods, pan pizzas and round pizzas of the Neapolitan school.
The pizza dough - light and digestible - has a rather neutral flavour; in many cases it is the topping that is the protagonist: made with extremely researched ingredients, often exclusive (for example smoked goose speck, donkey mortadella, the boar's head cup, the corata sausage, the New Caledonian blue shrimp), processed and combined with the typical wisdom of a chef.
For some montanare and pan recipes, type flours are used 1 you have it 7 semi.
The extra virgin oils are from an excellent company from Benevento.
The wine list is very extensive. The end-of-meal drinks are also highly sought after.
THE TASTING
On the occasion of a dinner reserved for the press organized by the journalist Laura Gambacorta we were able to taste a selection of pizzas.
A small bun (or “a little emotion”, as they like to say here) made with the dough from the pan PanPizza: Triple leavened dough in double cooking (in the oven with steam cooking and then toasted in the oven), songino, Marche tartare, parmesan sauce, black summer truffle and Greek feta.
In the vegetarian version the tartare is replaced by sautéed porcini mushrooms.
PanPizza: Triple leavened dough in double cooking (in the oven with steam cooking and then toasted in the oven), songino, Marche tartare, parmesan sauce, black summer truffle and Greek feta
PanPizza in vegetarian version
Signature Pizza (from Giuseppe's love for goldfinches) ‘O cardill: Double cooked Montanara (fried and baked again) with ai dough 7 semi, wild vegetable cream, Corata sausage, rag of red patch, basil and extra virgin olive oil.
The use of bitter vegetables is very interesting, while the seed mixture offers excellent chewiness.
‘O cardill: Double cooked Montanara (fried and baked again) with ai dough 7 semi, wild vegetable cream, Corata sausage, rag of red patch, basil and extra virgin olive oil
Traditional recipe with selected ingredients Provola and Pepper: Organic tomato puree, Straw smoked provola from Agerola, basil and extra virgin olive oil.
Provola and Pepper: Organic tomato puree, Straw smoked provola from Agerola, basil and extra virgin olive oil
Creative there Capasanta Flowers: Creamed Jerusalem artichokes, red spotted fior di latte, scallop carpaccio, buffalo sovereign mayonnaise, balsamic vinegar and black summer truffle.
Capasanta Flowers: Creamed Jerusalem artichokes, red spotted fior di latte, scallop carpaccio, buffalo sovereign mayonnaise, balsamic vinegar and black summer truffle
Very good The Norm according to Bove: Concentrated roasted tomato with concassé aubergines, stracciata di bufala, glazed aubergines in teriyaki sauce, smoked hard ricotta, basil crumble and extra virgin olive oil.
Instead of the classic basil leaf, a crumble prepared with almond flour and fresh basil is placed on the top.
The Norm according to Bove: Concentrated roasted tomato with concassé aubergines, stracciata di bufala, glazed aubergines in teriyaki sauce, smoked hard ricotta, basil crumble and extra virgin olive oil
It gets everyone to agree Ortolana Bove: Wild vegetable cream, seared aubergines, fried zucchini, pumpkin with soy, chopped peppers, red turnip ointment, baked black olive powder, Gran Murgiano (almond milk vegetable cheese), basil and Seleca extra virgin olive oil. For omnivores, vegetarians and vegans. One of the best vegetable pizzas I've ever tasted.
Ortolana Bove: Wild vegetable cream, seared aubergines, fried zucchini, pumpkin with soy, chopped peppers, red turnip ointment, baked black olive powder, Gran Murgiano (almond milk vegetable cheese), basil and Seleca extra virgin olive oil
It can also serve as a dessert Bufala Cheese, which includes six buffalo cheeses: during cooking, buffalo mozzarella and buffalo moringhello; dopo la cottura, Camembert di bufala, Blue Buffalo, crema di bufala, buffalo caciocavallo, basil and Seleca extra virgin olive oil. The cheeses on the surface are then flamed with the torch to give them a little heat and allow everything to blend better.
Not a classic “Four Cheeses” therefore, but a “Six cheeses” from the same dairy company.
Bufala Cheese – Cooking: mozzarella di bufala, buffalo moringhello After cooking: Camembert di bufala, Blue Buffalo, crema di bufala, buffalo caciocavallo, basil and Seleca extra virgin olive oil
Pulcinella's Secret is one of those destinations capable of inspiring travel: Don't be put off by the distance, take it as a challenge to achieve a coveted prize!
Pulcinella's Secret
Via Napoli, 92 – Montesarchio, Benevento
such. 329/8760545
www.facebook.com/IlSegretodiPulcinellaMontesarchio
Aperto solo a cena.
Closing day: Tuesday.
