BACALAJUÒ, THE ART OF COD IN ACERRA

There are plenty of thematic venues; few, on the other hand, are those capable of elevating specialization to art. Fortunately, we found one: Bacalajuò ad Acerra.

A restaurant where you really learn about cod and stockfish, not only through the many preparations, but above all through the very detailed stories of the owner Luigi Esposito, baccalaiuolo by profession and by vocation.

Luigi Esposito

HISTORY

The Esposito family – originally from Sant’Anastasia – has been a direct importer and reseller of cod and stockfish for four generations.

The discovery of the virtues of Acerra water is due to grandfather Luigi, coming from the Serino aqueduct, prodigious in regenerating the stockfish and desalting the cod. Hence the choice to start the business in the city of Pulcinella.

Even today, the water used for processing is one of the Esposito Group's strengths, together with the very high quality of the raw material. Stockfish comes from Norway, while cod from Iceland; in fact, the two nations are specialists in their respective sectors.

Recall that the species is the same, the Gadus Morhua (northern cod); the fish put in salt becomes baccalà, dried becomes stockfish.

THE LOCAL

Bacalajuò was born in March 2018, a few steps from the Castle of Acerra.

Bacalajuò, outer

Luigi Esposito had previously opened the Vinoteca Esposito in Piazza Castello in Acerra, since he is a great wine lover. He began to propose his cod for aperitifs, a sort of "Campania sushi"; little by little, The desire for a place entirely dedicated to the ingredient that has always been marketed by the family has made its way. Currently the winery is only for take away, while the restaurant has been moved to Bacalajuò, which also serves as a wine bar and take away bottle shop with wine shop prices.

Bacalajuò, internal

The baccaleria is not large in size, but it is very welcoming. The mise en place is deliberately simple, with a paper placemat showing the history of the family and various curiosities about cod.

The wine list is obviously well-kept, and often also offers off-paper.

THE KITCHEN

Bacalajuò's mission is to bring newbies closer to cod and to bring those who for one reason or another have moved away from it..

There is in the kitchen Arona “Ronny” Santoliquido, chef capable of enhancing the product without distorting it.

Arona “Ronny” Santoliquido

One of its flagships is the Carpaccio di baccalà: the chilled cod is filleted at the moment of serving, topped with dried tomato, Sicilian round olive from Belice, alice del Cilento hand-filleted and extra virgin olive oil. So tasty that it is the dish that is proposed as an "initiation rite" to those who say they do not like cod, and who punctually end up falling in love with it.

For the haters to the bitter end, however, there is always a small selection of fresh fish.

Carpaccio di baccalà

Also very interesting is theNoble fifth quarter salad with raw red cabbage.

Commonly the expression fifth quarter indicates the less valuable parts of meat or fish; in the specific case, invece, the fifth quarter chosen by Luigi Esposito was defined as "noble" for the uniqueness of the taste. These are the hardly available stockfish ventricles, basically stock tripe. Lo chef, after having thoroughly cleaned them, proposes them to salad dressing them with lemon and salt (a bit like meat with "’ o per e ‘o muss").

The best parts of Gadus Morhua are the mussillo (of cod), the crown (of stockfish) and the bacon (both cod and stockfish).

Quinto Quarto Noble salad with raw red cabbage

Greedy the Cod fish meatball, prepared only with fish, stale bread and spices and accompanied by mushroom aubergines.

Cod meatball with mushroom eggplant

Basically a "Puttanesca" of fish Linguine with stockfish sauce (with capers from Pantelleria, itrana black olive and tomatoes).

Linguine with stockfish sauce

For the Codfish plated with mashed potatoes with extra virgin olive oil, chives and Jerusalem artichoke chips the Black Cod variety of cod is used.

Codfish plated with mashed potatoes with extra virgin olive oil, chives and Jerusalem artichoke chips

Among other dishes on the menu, Paccheri with genovese and cod and cod in cassuola are very popular.

The dessert also sees the presence of cod! Il Sweet Bacalajuò is signed by the well-known pastry chef Antonino Maresca with the collaboration of Patrizia Veneroso. It's a cross between a lemon sorbet and a cheesecake, made with the ingredients of traditional cod recipes: potatoes, ceci, pomodoro, itrana olive, albedo and lemon peel, and a little cod. It took six months of tests to find the balance between all the elements.

Sweet Bacalajuò

Sweet Bacalajuò, the interior

USEFUL INFORMATION

In Conclusion, if in Portugal there are more than 300 cod-based recipes, even here in Naples you don't mess around; tra l’altro, in the Portuguese Republic only cod is consumed, while in Campania both cod and stockfish.
There is a Neapolitan saying according to which cod is the best of fish precisely because, thanks to two different processes, two products are born: cod and stockfish.
Let's also not forget that it is rich in Omega 3, 6 and 9, low in sodium and rich in iodine.

Bacalajuò is usually open 7 giorni su 7.
In this period in which there is an obligation of distancing, it is open from dinner on Tuesday until dinner on Saturday (from Wednesday to Saturday open for lunch and dinner). Closed Sundays, Monday and Tuesday for lunch. There are no shifts, so you can enjoy your stay in peace.

During the winter period, the offer also includes products of norcineria.

The prices are more than correct.

Thanks to the journalist Laura Gambacorta for allowing us this beautiful discovery: a place where the high quality of the ingredients is combined with a skilful cuisine.

Bacalajuò
Via Nazario Sauro, 6 - Acerra, Naples
such. 366/7180590
www.facebook.com/bacalajuo.vinotecaesposito