SARTÙ, TRADITION AND TERRITORY IN VOMERO
For almost five years in the neighborhood Vomero of Naples nestles a sign so tight how precious: Sartù.
For less accustomed to the Neapolitan cuisine, the name indicates a substantial dish old, conceived in the eighteenth century by Monzù (active cooks under the Bourbons) to encourage the consumption of rice among the Neapolitans.
But the kitchen of tradition is just one of the salient features of this restaurant.
The proposal would include, besides the classic bell table, also original recipes of chef Pozzuoli Mauro Buonanno, always sign in the territory and seasonality.
It could not be otherwise, as the patron Carlo Capuano It has a farm of production of hazelnuts and olive oil in the high Caserta, they come from many of the ingredients used in the kitchen vomeresi (including most vegetables and fruits).
Il locale, with clean lines and simple, It reflects the love of Charles for art and music, so much so that even the menu is designed as a score.
As an added treat, a small library entirely themed food and wine, whose volumes are available to customers for consultation.
But let's score.
Pane, focaccia (high hydration) and breadsticks are homemade.
Tra le Opening, the gable of smoked cheese, from the study and recovery of a historical recipe Jeanne Carola Francesconi, author of the work The Neapolitan cuisine (1965).
The preparation was originally established in the pan; Here is a proposal in the form of bread sphere enclosing a heart of smoked cheese and salami. The eardrum is supported on a sauce of San Marzano worked as little as possible, in order to preserve the acid part.
Even the white rice Sartù follows the recipe by Jeanne Carola Francesconi. The chef's preparation, single version, it contains all the ingredients (the veal meatballs, chicken livers, the mushrooms) but it relieved to get closer to contemporary taste. To top it all, a cream of peas.
Creating Mauro Buonanno instead linguine with octopus liver and coffee.
A bold flat, where the pasta from Gragnano IGP Gerardo di Nola is combined with the fifth quarter in octopus and single origin coffee varieties Catuai Honduras.
The combination is the result of a long search. The chef is fond of the less noble parts of animals; Here he treated the liver as a sea urchin, using it out of the fire. The choice of coffee (anzi, a specialty coffee, high quality) It is not random: in addition to the combination color, the acidity of the coffee used to enhance the taste of the sea and to turn off the blood by the liver.
The dish is creamy, the sweet tendency and the captivating scent.
For the Second Act, Maiale, pig, pig: belly, greaves and antique black pig Lucano feet in three different cooking. The foot is like a bonbon Breaded, Fried and matched with a lemon and pepper sauce; The greaves and plated, while the belly is cooked under vacuum with its rind and paired with mashed potatoes and friarielli.
In Finale con brio, Trifle Neapolitan (the historical recipe Jeanne Carola Francesconi).
The sponge is soaked in maraschino liqueur and topped with apricot compote Pellecchiella, cherries in syrup and meringue.
La cantina – respectable – It is strongly focused on Campania.
There there are also the spirits Berola, company Portico di Caserta, whose spirits are made from local fruit and artisan distillation method.
The Tasting Menu from 4 portate costa 40 Euro (45 with catch of the day), quello da 6 portate 50 (55 with catch of the day).
Sartù is a must try.
Because here "Tradition is only a starting point", as they like to emphasize the hosts.
Because the Genovese is made to perfection, with Onion Ramata Montoro and hand broken Gragnano ziti.
Because Carlo Capuano is always around to select the best ingredients to offer its guests.
And because the local is always a delightful background music, excellent antidote to the noise of everyday life.
Sartù
Via San Gennaro in Vomero, 9B – Napoli
such. 331/8810666
www.sartunapoli.it
Open Wednesday to Monday at dinner, closed Tuesday.
Saturday and Sunday also open for lunch.