CHOCOLATE IN SWEET AND SALTY, GUIDED BY DOLCIARTE
Everyone loves chocolate, and who says he does not love him mind!
But, as so often happens, it's easy to say chocolate.
Where is he from? How many types exist? How it works? How to use?
Carmen Vecchione, master pastry holds Dolciarte (Two cakes 87 points in the guide Pasticceri & Confectioneries 2019 del Gambero Rosso), He was inspired by these questions to propose a meeting in which information has coupled with the pleasure of tasting.
Here are some answers emerged from the evening.
PROVENANCE
The cocoa plantations are located in the central equatorial, because they need a very humid climate.
Il 69% of world cocoa production is concentrated in Africa, followed by Southeast Asia with 18% and with from Central America 13%.
The plants do not need direct light; They are not particularly high (the maximum height is about 10 meters) and they are often found beneath taller trees.
The fruit of the cocoa tree is called Cabossa or Cabosside, and grows on the branches is that the main trunk.
VARIETY
The main varieties of pods are three: Stranger (the most famous and productive, 80% of world production), Creole (the most valuable, 5% of world production) and Trinitario (a mix of Criollo and Forastero, originally from Trinidad, 15% of world production).
PROCESSING
Inside the cabossa are thirty beans and a sweet white pulp.
The first stage of processing the cocoa bean is the fermentation, which occurs in about 6 days under banana leaves.
Then there is the 'drying, carried out in the sun. It is essential to eliminate the moisture that is inside of the bean.
Immediately after there is the collection of dried beans, close bags and shipment to the chocolate factories.
The beans must be completely dry otherwise it could create mold while traveling, that usually is quite long (until 3 mesi).
Another important step is the roasting, which serves to block the bacterial load. The temperature and time vary depending on the origin of the beans and the cocoa type.
Once freed from the shell the beans you have grué.
To pressure at high temperatures there is the division cocoa butter and cocoa mass.
Il cioccolato as we all know it was born from the union of cocoa mass, cocoa butter, zucchero, soy lecithin and vanilla.
The taste and smell characteristics of chocolate are derived largely from cocoa origin. The classic tablets can be prepared with single-origin cocoa, in which case it is called Cru, but there are also the blends created by the various chocolatiers.
THE TASTING
For creations Dolciarte Carmen Vecchione uses chocolate Valrhona, excellence in the industry.
We have therefore been able to compare various forms of white chocolate, dark chocolate, milk chocolate and special chocolates.
Il cioccolato bianco It does not contain cocoa mass; It consists of cocoa butter, zucchero, milk powder and soya lecithin. Therefore, the chocolate definition would be improper.
Tre them tasted typology:
– Ivory, 35% cocoa butter, the simplest and known;
– Dulcey, 32% cocoa butter, caramelized milk and sugar;
– Orelys, with muscovado, from notes of licorice.
Il dark chocolate It must have a minimum 45% cocoa mass.
tasting:
– Satilia al 62% cocoa mass, blend base that is used when you do not want to characterize too sweet;
– Illanka 63%, single origin Peru;
– Caribbean 66%, assembly of Grand Cru from the Caribbean sea;
– Guanaja, assembly of Grand Cru, the first chocolate in the world with 70% cocoa. There also exists in version 80%;
– bini 85%, assembly of African Grand Cru, bitter and aromatic;
– Caranoa 55%, Chocolate and caramel union, delicious and enjoyable.
Il cioccolato al latte It contains milk powder.
tasting:
– Caramelia, 36% cocoa mass, with caramel made from skimmed milk and butter;
– Jivr 40%, very fragrant;
– Bahibé 46%, single origin of the Dominican Republic, the percentage of very high for being a milk chocolate cocoa.
Then there are the flavored chocolates, come Black Orange 56% flavored with orange, dark Coffee 57%, Gianduja hazelnut milk 35% and dark hazelnut Gianduja 34% (both with hazelnut paste).
Another category is that of Special chocolates Roofing, which contain freeze-dried fruit. They are for processing, not tasting. Among the flavors available, Mandorla, Fragola, Raspberry, Passion fruit and Yuzu. They are scenografici to see each other and do not contain dyes.
CULINARY TASTING
Although it is almost always associated with sweets, chocolate and cocoa can also be used for savory preparations.
One trick to keep in mind when you want to give a bitter taste to a dish is to add cocoa.
As an example of use, Carmen has prepared sandwiches with chocolate, with two different fillings: Burrata and drop Irpinia and Artichokes, mint and provola.
Another demo creation, Tartlets savory pastry with shredded, alici, grué cocoa and lemon peel.
For examples of use of the chocolate desserts, Carmen has made three different creams with the same type of dark chocolate, specifically a creamy (more chocolate custard), a custard dark chocolate and a ganache mounted dark chocolate.
Another little trick of Carmen? Add salt flakes to desserts to bring out the chocolate flavor.
The ideas proposed by chocolate Vecchione Carmen are easily replicated at home; perhaps not with the same results, but here they provide only suggestions, the hand of the creator is not included!
To be safe, nothing better than to head to Avellino to discover the delights of Dolciarte.
Dolciarte
Via Trinità, 52 – Avellino
such. 0825/34719
www.facebook.com/Carmenvecchionedolciarte/
Valrhona
https://inter.valrhona.com/it